Now, this is a challenge for me. I was wondering how to start with words when it comes to Stari Grad and I think I should start with those I have used so many times describing it to my clients.
Many of my words are hidden behind those, find your own, maybe yours are too.
So, Stari Grad, the most beautiful little town on the planet, which every time leaves me speechless. With every step of the way, there is a certain feeling of unreality, like a movie set, a drop scene as the fake Greek village on the island of Mana on Kornati islands is, staged for a movie As the sea rages from 1959.
However, Stari Grad hasn’t been staged in this or the last century, it is a heritage which is evolving for more than 2500 years, changing beautifully.
I will take you for awalk, as I have been taking almost every crew till now. I say almost, and some people who know about “the Jebs” will know why.
Many people walk the seafront in Stari Grad, while the best beauties lies hidden in the narrow alleys of the town. As there has been a great connection between people and any form of water, making a regular human unable to live more than 3 days without it, in Stari Grad water will take away many treasures that Stari Grad is hidding.
Making a first turn, away from the sea, the first square appears, and it is a home of the house one of the greatest Croatian poet and philosopher, Petar Hektorovic.
When I look at Petar, I can not restrain my thoughts to think and ask myself, where did the things go wrong. Died in 1572, almost 500 years later, why so few have decided to follow an example of such man and men alike. When the country where I am born is turned to a mental graveyard and the leaches of society are sucking both intellect and heritage of every woman and man alive. These are the sad times we are living in, but hey, the choice for a change is always present, it remains in the moment and the moment is timeless.
Religion and faith were of much importance for the people of Stari Grad and perhaps, the church as we see it now, was not as such in the past. It might be that the people that gathered there were offering sympathy and help to each other.
And it is interesting how many sights there are around you. Sometimes it is not enough to look forward, you may be missing for what is on the floor, or above you, or beside you.
Amen for that!
My regular path leads to the Dominican monastery, a place where in probably more than a hundred visits to Stari Grad I had maybe met 10 people, and in the high season.
Away from the waterline, what has remained and what will be lost sits, however, with the ability to outlive many generations, after many generations it will fade away.
The darkness will consume it, as everything is born from the darkness and everything will return to the darkness.
Space, a mother’s womb, a moment without thoughts are permeated with darkness, the most despised and neglected deity, the truth from which everything comes from, even the light. The space that grants you to be the same, as where you step your foot, not even the king or so called gods can not be at the same place at the same time.
So is Stari Grad, the only place at its place at its time, traveling for almost 3 millenniums, through the womb of creation.
The church of St. John has always been a sign that my little tour is close to the end. With her remains in the yard which date from 5th century it is the oldest archaeological site of the town. As it was explained to me years ago, before that era, no people were located close to the sea front. Sea front meant exposure and exposure meant death, so the early people were living inland, coming to sea for fishing, but always with a deep respect and even a fear, because sometimes if pirates would not claim your life, the sea would.
I always found it funny how the tower in Stari Grad was built.
The church of St. Stephen, which I have withhold, as many other thing, with the intention for any reader to come and see for himself (the truth is that I forgot), is built in a Roman style and the bell tower 3 centuries later making it a fusion which I haven’t seen anywhere else.
The narrow alleys where my foot has never crossed sober in this time of the night are a pure delight. With many small specialize shops.
And finally the exit to the seafront, where all the people blinded by sea are.
I won’t mention any names as my writings are not promotional, however, two things stand out for me in Stari Grad. The first is a local artist, a person definitely out of this world, named Zoran, who has a gallery, which reminds me of my interesting conclusion years ago. When I first came to Stari Grad, I saw his exhibition and in-front there was a sign saying “No Photos, Please” and I thought that it is the play with words, kind of no photos, but please take photos, that would result in a couple of years with a realization that the sign really means what it said and a part of my imaginary humor was lost forever. I am a great fan of Zoran’s work, however he makes some some necklaces, which, at least for me, represent life after life and even if it would be thankless for me to ask Zoran to shoot his gallery I can shoot these necklaces and there is nothing he can do about it, hahaha.
One for my beautiful daughter Isa, the other for my wonderful nephew Erik. For the materials used, it is the best to ask the Artist.
The second place, not to forget, is a small restaurant close to the very romantic little square called Škor, where one of the most beautiful food may be tasted for about 15 € per dish, and you should believe me as I have eaten everywhere and everything. You will know that you are in the right place if the man that looks like a Jethro Tull’s Ian Anderson is standing there, or Santa Claus on a serious diet, however our Santa will respond to the name Boško.
Thank you again for walking with me, it is a pleasure to have you along the way!