Coming out of my “sauna” it was already around 07:00 a.m. and as there was not even a breeze during the night even the morning was unbearable. I saw some of the Jebs still sleeping outside in the cockpit, poor souls probably couldn’t sleep through night as the sunlight didn’t woke them up, as it didn’t many of our neighbors.
It was the time for my healthy “Turkish” breakfast in a lovely Espresso, beneath some palm trees in a fat shade of the building.
It is always a pleasure to sit there, as the locals will start to appear, harbor personnel and exhausted skippers. Couple of complaints, maybe some jokes or just an empty stare at the sea is always a part of a great morning ritual.
It probably depends of what barometer is showing!
But nothing, as always could change my mood, as it was “Vis” day. I still can’t describe in words why,but Vis has that something, something indescribable by words even if I would learn all the words and languages in this world, I wouldn’t be able to describe it. It is a feeling it is an emotion. It is the historical Issa, the feeling that I passed to my daughter by naming her after the island.
Many times I was around some people, people of my occupation and I could hear them speaking about Vis, about the time of Jugoslavija, how it was closed for general public as it was a “forbidden” military island and those are the facts, it was a military island, it was close, it was the only and strong resistance point against the Nazis during the Second World War, but there is much more than that.
Vis represents evolution, it represents civilization, it presents life. Vis was a “jump board” more than 2000 years ago when culture came in this area, when history started to record and expend farther into north Europe. The trade and military affairs did trigger a horrible change that we are facing even these days, but let us hope that one day the change will happen, a change we are witnessing for centuries.
I had my round of chit-chat and went to see if my “lovely” crew is awake. I found only Mr. Jeb there and asked him where are the others, he said that they all went running to the cross. The highest point where the cross is is called Glavica (a little head).
With a smile on my face I did say somewhat amused:
“I hope that they where dressed properly as this island is quite known for Croatian and European most poisonous snake “Poskok”.”
He did not find that funny and added shortly that they went running in their shorts and that it would be the best if we don’t mention the snakes. It did seem that some strange fear has got into him and it wasn’t from snakes.
I have to add a story of my grand grandfather, who was a professor biologist. When he would, while in pension, walk the beautiful mountains around his birthplace “Hreljin” and by any chance notice a snake close to houses, he would say in a soft Croatian dialect “Run away poor creature, some of those barbarians might kill you”. Ain’t it a truth? There is nothing to fear off, they will run away as soon as they hear the “wise” man approaching and will defend themselves only when threatened.
Did you know that snakes will release almost all of it’s poison when tempered with and just slight amount when they attack while hunting?
No? So now you know, leave them alone!
The rest of the crew came back, we didn’t mention the snakes and I asked them if they would all like to go with me for a short walk around Stari Grad to show them some points of interest, which usually doesn’t take more then 15 minute, as a third indicator of my good will, but they have refused. I wont mention them all, but it is a really nice walk, with couple of ancient churches, a monastery with a museum and a beautiful Petar Hektorovic’s arboretum.
They have refused!
With a quick preparations, payment for mooring fees, we sailed out and continued our journey in direction of Vis. We shortly stopped on Pakleni islands, which I have mentioned before in previous story, so not to repeat myself, the only interesting part here were the Jebs. I have received the most unusual request from them.
To explain before continuing, this story takes place in the high season, when almost all the boats of all the kinds are at the see. The Jebs saw Pakleni as lovely islands, but requested if I could take them somwhere, where there they would be alone. I was thinking, “yes sure”, please let me turn our rocket drive and I will take to any of the seas on the moon, most likely to the Sea of Crisis!
I have passed all of the most beautiful bays of “Pakleni” and dropped the anchor on the confronted and wavy side, where no one normal would anchor, quickly took the rope and jumped in the sea, swam to the rocks and tied it up. It must have been a delight for them to see such a swift movement, but I did not come back. I went to the rocks and lied down and enjoy away from the Jebs as it was already 3 hours since we had left Stari Grad. Otherwise, the nights on Pakleni can be just amazing, the true serenity and a peace of mind.
The price of solitude was, that they really didn’t want to swim in a wavy sea. But hey, if solitude is what you want, solitude is what you get!
After a while when I figured that they had enough, I took the rope off, swam back and we were ready and on the move again, sailing to beautiful Issa.
The crossing of the channel is always amazing and the nature will always treat you with amazing perspectives of Vis, in any kind of conditions and any time of the day.
Jeb’s, Staljin’s, Hitler’s, Trump’s I really don’t care when going for Vis!
Thank you Vis and a beautiful people of Vis for being there for us!