As always, I was quite happy to leave Milna and as we passed “the gates of Split”, a passage between island of Brac and island of Šolta, we went in direction of Stari Grad (Hvar).
At one moment, while sailing, I reached for the bottle of water that I took and placed it next to my seat, but I could not find it. I could not remember if I drank it or not, but somehow I was sure that I didn’t, and at least I would remember emptying the bottle and throwing it away, but the idea did cross my mind that for some reason maybe Jebs did mind me taking the whole bottle for myself, even if there ware loads of water bottles around, but I didn't want to jump to any conclusions.
We stopped shortly in a bay called Tiha (Silent bay), which is a very nice place to stop for a swim and the afternoon on the sun.
However, don’t let the name Tiha fool you. There is plenty of sounds from billions of crickets and birds and even the bay is circled and protected almost from all sides, there are constantly some small gusts of wind kicking in.
I remember when I just started sailing and almost all of the bays in Croatia were free of charge, but the monetary mechanism did come to our country as well and changed everything, that were the days. As I don’t mind and have no real reason to complain for all the expensive places on the planet, being it just an overpriced espresso on the St. Marco’s square in Venice or a slice of Pizza in London’s Pizza Hut, it would be hypocritical to blame people back home of finding their ways of making money.
But still, what I do mind is greed, and that greed has turned our country too expensive for its own people to live in. Mooring fees went up for 500% in the last 15 years as well as all the other things and the standard did not change much, only the poor have become poorer.
Our new slogan could easily be:
TOURIST WITH CASH, WELCOME, ALL THE OTHERS, YOU CAN JUST GO AND F…. YOURSELVES!
Anyway, this feeling is now present in most of the places where you go and it is spreading like a disease.
So, Tiha is also an example of commerce. Once a beautiful, free of charge, mooring place is now filled with yellow buoys and payment is required if you plan to stay more than an hour. Our wise government with our maritime exploitation lobby, did even brought a law, where it prohibits you to drop your anchor anywhere in a radius of 300 m from the last buoy, otherwise a fine will apply, and believe me those fines are more expensive then a buoy you refused to pay.
Money is making it’s way to all forms of human freedom. It have just occurred me about the documentary which I was watching about the luxury spiritual resort, which I wont name, but talking about absurd. Poor old Buddha is probably still thinking this one out, luxury=spiritual.
I was already getting hungry, as my nice and considerate crew went for a nice launch with friends in Milna and left me without anything on the boat and did not remember at any time to offer their skipper with something to eat, which is their duty and it is mentioned in the contract (daily fee plus food and drinks!), with no limitations. I kind of rushed them to go, as again if we are late we will not get the mooring place and recommending them to reserve a spot, which would result in some extra payment or a tip for a service, with already provided kind of consciousness was out of the question.
So, there it was, our first docking. I was coming close the Stari Grad harbor,
and all of the sudden there was a great commotion between Jebs and their “bitches”. They started to bring plates and food out and I was thinking if I should say something, which I usually would. But concerning that I will spend another 12 days with them and on the day two if I break, it wont be a good vacation for them, nor the great job for me. So I let them have their fun, docked the boat without any help (like in Milna), jumping over them and honestly swearing a lot from the inside. Advice for the first time sailors, don’t let your skipper do all the work, as all the crews from the other boat together with marina personnel will comment it and the outcome will be that you are all a big bunch of wankers, as were the Jebs and their barnacles, bitches or whatever.
The docking with mooring lasted not more than five minutes, with maneuvering to a tight spot. The Jebs were amazed and just because (the poor old) Greek skipper apparently needed up to 45 minutes to dock a boat in similar conditions, which left me wandering “why?” and Jebs kind of proud and happy for some reason. I saw the remains which they left for me to eat, I excused my self, said that I am going to get some proper food and that I will be seeing them tomorrow morning.
Doviđenja, Au Revoir, Bye, Addio, 再見, etc.
Stari Grad is a small, but amazing town. First time that I saw it I got really fond of it and it wasn't so popular in the past as the town of Hvar did take all the fame. I did not mind Stari Grad being quiet. I would avoid the decadency of Hvar town, my clients can always take a cab and visit Hvar and we have a nice relaxing night in one of the most oldest and beautiful places in Croatia, which did not become like Hvar town, just a big toilet. And being the island’s capital (yes, that is right, Stari Grad is capital, not Hvar), you have everything there you may possibly need, well if you are not looking to buy inflatable sex dolls.
There are couple of places that I really like and which I like to visit, and when I have nice clients, I always take them there, as I am sure of the great service and excellent quality, without usual rip off standard, which I have mentioned is on the tidal rise in Croatia.
A coffee at Espresso cafe:
Dinner at Antika:
And a word or two with the most eccentric person in Stari Grad and a great artist Zoran Tadić. Zoran is one of those people that you would consider that they do not belong on this planet. These kind of people could really be described as the true Homo Sapiens when referring to wise, honest and just. He is a person of ease and a great talent, making sculptures and, I wouldn't call it a jewelry, but the ornaments for your body, which in some way and somehow preserve life and in the most respectful way represent nature.
A nice walk around the romantic alleys, a great view and feeling of history older then 2500 years never left me indifferent. When it gets busy, people are just walking on the promenade, like sheeps, from one side to another, but the real spirit of Stari Grad is in those little alleys. Ancient little churches, paved paths, Latin inscriptions, stone houses and little family shops is where the spirit of Stari Grad lies.
Good night Stari Grad, see you tomorrow Jebs, it is time to go to my bunk bed.